Sea Child in Sudan: Diving and Snorkeling the Red Sea and Sanganeb Reef

Sanganeb Reef and Light House,  April 9, 2016

When Sea Child was in Fiji in 2010, I took a Padi Certification Course with Subsurface Fiji and earned my Open Water Diver Cert.  Eric had earned his NAUI Certificate back in 1973, a much more challenging dive course that included rescue, cpr, and real emergency situations that were much more involved than my 3-day dive course.  In other words, his skill at diving is far superior than my Open Water Diver.  And his passion for diving inspired me to pursue a sport that we both can enjoy on Sea Child.  

We set Sea Child up with a dive compressor and spare parts, 4 sets of dive gear and the necessary wetsuits and weights. The bountiful, stunning reefs in Fiji were easily explored from the decks of Sea Child.  Diving became a number one activity and we sought out destinations that would allow us to continue the pursuit of my new passion.  As we sailed on from Fiji,  we explored the unique rock formations of Poor Knights, New Zealand; The Coolidge Wreck in Santo, Vanuatu; Isle of Pines, New Caledonia; Great Barrier Reef, Australia; Komodo National Park, Indonesia; Similan and Surin Islands, Thailand; Andaman Islands, India; and Maldives.  All these spectacular dive locations were unique in their own right.  But none of those locations matched the serenity, clarity, and diversity of diving in the Red Sea.

The beauty and color of the corals of Red Sea Coast, Sudan
photo by Tamara Barto

While in the Port of Suakin (Sawakin), our agent and friend, Mohammed, shared his copy of the dive book, Blu Sudan, by Maria Christina Pulliero.  This treasured copy was signed by the author to Mohammed, and he generously allowed us to take a few pictures of some of the incredible dive sites offshore the coast of Sudan.  

Book courtesy of Mohammed, Port Suakin Agent

 Sawakin (Suakin) is located SSW of Sanganeb Reef, the UMBRIA is located just off Port Sudan

As we motor-sailed out of Suakin (Sawakin) Harbor, Eric made 30 gallons of fresh water and by 1100 we were tied up at the mooring field of our first dive stop, the UMBRIA.  Lying in the shelter of Wingate Reef, the Umbria was sunk on June 9, 1940 by her Italian captain.  Italy had entered WWII that day, and rather than have the British take her cargo of bombs and weapons, not to mention cases and cases of Italian wines, she was sunk and sits on her port side 30-38 meters deep.  She is over 150 meters in length and can be explored in her entirety.  Since she was purposely sunk, there is no collision damage or other wreckage to her hull.  

When we arrived at the UMBRIA site, we were the only vessel there and the two of us were able to explore one of the worlds best dive sites by ourselves.  Her eery, underwater caverns are filled with supplies strewn about and we were able to swim inside her cargo holds. It was a bit disorienting for me to dive in a ship on her side, and as we went deeper (our max depth 22 meters) we found hundreds of empty wine bottles, car parts, and stacks of bombs.  We explored for over 57 minutes, in awe at the incredible clarity of the water and the unique hard and soft corals teeming with sea life.  The salinity of the Red Sea required us both to use a bit more weight than our past dives, and the exhilaration of our first Red Sea dive kept us both pumped as we returned to Sea Child alone at the reef.  

Tamara at the light house, Sanganeb Reef

Eric at the base of the 258-step lighthouse

We continued out east to Sanganeb Reef (19 degrees, 439.1N, 37 degrees, 268E) 14 NM NE of Port Sudan.  The reef was a short 2 hour sail from the UMBRIA, with full main and jib.  Channel 16 VHF was busy with “live fire exercise” announcements broadcast every 15 minutes that would continue through the night, some 60 NM from our location at Sanganeb.  These radio broadcasts had become so frequent they were almost a daily occurrance and as we sailed up the Red Sea a log entry was recorded as to lat/long and type of exercise.  This particular announcement was being hailed by Coalition Warships with security security security easily understood in English.   

We set the anchor at 1630 and enjoyed a quiet night at the remote and deserted reef.  The stars overhead shone brilliantly in the dark sky, the peace brought on by slight waves washing over Sanganeb.  On Sunday morning, April 10, we woke to a beautifully clear and sunny day at the epic reef.  Her colors of blue green edged with darker purples and blues surrounded the Sanganeb Lighthouse.  We took the dinghy to the lighthouse early, meeting some very nice Sudanese men who sold t-shirts and coffee cups to support the maintenance of the lighthouse itself.  We climbed the 258 circular steps to the lens at the top of the lighthouse and were stunned by the fantastic view of the Red Sea, with Sea Child sitting alone just off the northern edge of the reef.  The visibility was easy +20 miles and again the stunning Red Sea opened up before us.  Thrilled as we were, we returned to Sea Child to continue our underwater exploration of Sanganeb, and we were again enthralled by the beauty of the Red Sea.

Large, colorful giant clam

Eric just above Sanganeb Reef

We grabbed our masks, snorkels and fins to swim the outer rim of Sanganeb Reef and caught our breath at the stunning beauty surrounding us.  Its hard to find words to describe the crystal clear waters filled with schools of pelagic and reef fishes.  The kaleidoscope of colorful corals mixed with the tight gathering of giant clams opened up before us as we floated just above the reef.  We swam to the far eastern edge of Sanganeb Reef, gazing into the deep blue waters of the Red Sea.  The wondrous blue water was before us, clear and refreshing and full of life.  The visibility was again spectacular and all sea life was vibrant and healthy and full of fish ~ a bountiful experience far surpassing the recovering reefs of the Maldives and Great Barrier Reef.  We gasped at this incredible beauty, this marvelous experience to visit a reef so remote, so removed from mass tourism.  We felt blessed and beyond thrilled at the opportunity to be off the coast of Sudan, in the Red Sea, just above the breathtaking Sanganeb Reef. 

The view of the reef, with Sea Child in the distance.  We were the only boat there!

The incredible reefs edge at Sanganeb Reef, Sudan 
Photo by Tamara Barto

As we returned to Sea Child, we grabbed some rags to wipe her waterline which was floating a good 2” higher than she did in the Indian Ocean.  Interestingly, we were surprised at the absence of any growth on her bottom. Any algae that was present wiped off with ease.  Eric believes the salinity content of the Red Sea worked with us to prevent much growth on the bottom ~ a stark contrast to the rapid growth we fought continuously throughout SE Asia.  After a quick lunch, we took advantage of the weather to head N towards Egypt and Port Ghalib, 435 NM north. 

SEA CHILD floats over 2" above water in the Red Sea

Please come back for more of our Red Sea Adventure.  Up next, sailing to Egypt and more diving!

Please visit blusudan.com for more information about the incredible experiences and trips in diving Sudan. 

  

Sea Child in the Red Sea: Arriving in Sudan

Old Port Suakin at Dawn 

Our departure from Massawa, Eritrea for Suakin, Sudan began early on Wednesday, April 6, 2016.  The 0500 alarm rang into the darkness, the dim lights of the nearby commercial docks illuminating our stateroom.  We stumbled into the galley, brewed the sweet aromas of coffee, and untied Sea Child for our next destination, Suakin, Sudan, 278.5NM to our NNW.  We sailed past the docks and noticed the freighters that were being loaded up with the dozens of containers that had arrived just the day before.  We had watched those containers zip through the dusty Massawa streets, the only vehicles on the desolate roads.  Truck after truck waited to enter the secure Port of Massawa and while we were bound to Sea Child after the confiscation of our shore passes, the friendly Port Authority official told us the contents of the containers.  They contained gold and ore and copper to be shipped to far away countries like China and beyond.  They glistened in the fragments of sunrise, each awaiting their respective journey to faraway lands.

The sunrise illuminated our path to the northwest, with a flat, calm sea welcoming us as we hoisted a full main and rolled out the screecher.  The winds were light and steady during our sail to Sudan, on overnight journey, and the one knot current we fought up to Suakin was consistent with the same current we fought up the entire Red Sea coast, from Eritrea and Sudan and up through Egypt to the top of the Gulf of Suez.  The AIS was lit up with targets all over the Red Sea, commercial vessels sailing to and from distant shores, up to the Suez Canal and the Mediterranean or to the south to Pakistan or China or Penang.  So many foreign vessels to keep us company at night and making our watch to Sudan as pleasant as possible.

Sea Child at Port Suakin

We averaged 7.9 knots boat speed during the 35 hour passage to Suakin, and with one not so small incident of avoiding a collision with an unmarked reef, we set anchor in Suakin, Sudan at 1700 on Thursday, April 7, 2016.  We had arrived into a new country, another African nation, a whole new world.  All I knew of Sudan was from what I had seen and heard via American media channels.  From Darfur to Khartoum, it seemed to me that this country was one of strife and war and unrest.  To say that I was nervous about our time there is a gross understatement.  I felt scared, unsure, possibly unwelcome as white Americans in a foreign African landscape.  Our adrenaline was peaked, again, at our arrival into such a distant, remote panorama.  The sights and smells of Suakin were overpowering and irresistible, like nothing we’ve ever imagined.

Sudanese Currency

Prior to the succession of South Sudan in 2011, Sudan was the largest country in all of Africa.  Bordered by Eritrea on its southern Red Sea border and Egypt on its northern.  It remains a visual testament to the diversity of the continent.  According to our Sudan: Brandt Travel Guide, “if you cross Sudan, you will see all of African in one country”.  Our focus of Sudan was the Red Sea Coast, a territory of Sudan separated by the spine of the Red Sea Hills from the rest of the country.  The heat of the Red Sea can reach upwards of 122 degrees F in summer.  Sea Child arrived in Sudan in early April, yet the assault of the heat was only tempered by a moving breeze floating off the Red Sea itself.

New Mosque in old Port Suakin

Preparing for a visit to Sudan on Sea Child was no easy task.  Information is not readily available, though noonsite.com provides general information as does the Red Sea Pilot, both of which we had onboard.  We also stocked up on various travel guides, Brandt in particular is a good source for off the beaten patch countries like Sudan.  We consumed as much information as possible to prepare ourselves for our short visit to Suakin and the Red Sea Coast of Sudan.

As prepared as we thought we were, arriving in Suakin, Sudan was an experience like no other.  The sights and smells of Suakin were both recognizable yet foreign in their combinations.  The colors of the late afternoon sun reflected orange and yellow and ochre on the rocky, sandy shores of Port Suakin.  The winds carried the scents of donkeys, dirt and trash towards us, as droplets of red grit covered the decks of Sea Child.

Cinnamon Bark

Sudanese sellers

Suakin was once a major port for Sudan and remains the oldest port in the country.  The port is significant due to its trade in both pilgrims to Mecca as well as slaves to Egypt, Sauda Arabia and beyond.  Controlled by the Ottoman Sultans who ruled Suakin from Jeddah, Saudi Arabia during the peak of the Red Sea trade, the port was ultimately annexed to Egypt in 1865.  By the end of the 20th century, the main port of Sudan was moved to Port Sudan, 30NM to the north of Suakin.  This move helped to accommodate the more modern ships being built at the time and brought a rapid decline to the once thriving little port of Suakin.  The once ornate buildings surrounding the anchorage had crumbled into ruins.  While the slave trade is now but a bitter memory, the ferries to Mecca and Jeddah in Saudi Arabia continue to thrive, bringing pilgrims from all over Africa to the holiest shrines in all of Islam.

Sudanese Children

We called the Suakin Port Authority prior to our entry into the anchorage area, who in turn must have phoned the local agent of our arrival.  We had read in our Red Sea Pilot that the agent, Mohammed, would greet all arriving yachts into Suakin.  He was there to meet Sea Child, too.  As we droped our anchor we noticed a man waving to us from shore and before the sun set, Eric dropped the dinghy and brought a tall, stately, elegant Sudanese man to Sea Child.  Mohammed was dressed in all white.  A long robe with a neat, white skull cap against his perfect ebony skin.  His bright white smile and kind demeanor immediately put us at ease as he welcomed us to Sudan.  He explained in perfect English that his primary job is immigration for the country, assisting pilgrims during the annual hajj to Saudi Arabia.  His “other” job is to assist visiting yachts such as Sea Child and to obtain temporary shore permits, fuel, laundry and provisions all with his kind assistance.

Mohammed and the diesel delivery

Compared to other countries we had visited, entry to Sudan was quite simple.  Mohammed needed two copies of our passports, one set of passport photos, one copy of our ships papers, all stated in the Red Sea Pilot.  Unlike the Maldives, where we had to forward several documents via email (crew lists, ship stores, ammunition lists if any, etc) Sudan was efficient in the paperwork requests.  Mohammed took our documents with him to shore, as well as our bags of dirty laundry and our 4 empty jerry jugs for diesel.  The day was getting late, and he would return in the morning with our shore passes and filled diesel jugs.

Mohammed’s early departure was a blessing in disguise, as we had an early dinner, shower and bed for a  wonderful night sleep.  The fatigue of our journey was compounded by our impressions of Sudan and our bodies cried out for rest.  At 0900 the next morning, Eric picked Mohammed again on shore with our filled diesel jugs and shore passes.  He arrived with a friend this time, who hauled up large, blue plastic diesel drums and sucked the diesel out of a hose to get the syphon flowing into our diesel tanks.  I’m sorry not to have remembered the name of Mohammed’s friend, but it did interest me that he was one of the few Sudanese men who did not wear the traditional white robes and skull caps. They both worked side by side on the transom of Sea Child, filling diesel with bright smiles in the morning heat.

Eric & the tea seller

Mohammed also helped us provision Sea Child by driving us around in his neat, late model Mercedes Benz, also known as his “memorial car” as Mohammed referred to his black 4-door sedan complete with missing hub cap.  He drove us past the crumbled ruins of the old port and into the more modern buildings of Suakin, past donkey carts filled with the bales of hay and past rickety lean-tos of past and present homes.  We first visited a fruit market.  A covered open air building with several stalls filled with a variety of fruits of vegetables.  Each stall was manned by Sudanese men; each stall offering the same vegetables.

Appropriately covered for the market

I was covered appropriately in head scarf, long skirt and long sleeve shirt and felt comfortable with Mohammed as my guide through the fruit market. He knew all the vendors and took us to the freshest stands.  Yet tugging at the back of my mind was the fact that in stall after stall no women were to be found.  It was as if this particular market was run by men only.  I was the only female around, yet I felt completely at ease in selecting the delectable fresh foods.  Outside the market, we bought tea from a local man who setup shop on the steps of the market.  He squatted on bent knees over a wood fire covered with a metal plate.  He brewed his tea in a smoldered kettle and we were served in smudged glasses.  Though this may bring on a future stomach ailment, we enjoyed a few minutes of sitting in the shade of the market and observing the area around us.  We saw boxes of cigarettes awaiting individual sale, a lonely tuk-tuk parked behind a neat stump of wood.  Individual stores lined the market with arabic writing in a tight red script alongside scattered boxes filled with the exotic aromas of cinnamon bark.  When we drove back to the rocky anchorage, Mohammed stopped by a bread seller, an antiquated drive-up building that housed a cotton-lined shelf covered in a dusty flour.  We grabbed a few bags of delicious Sudanese pita, soft, warm and for some mysterious reason a bit crunchy, must have had something to do with all the red dirt blowing around.

The selection was amazing!

We were able to find yellow pumpkin, green watermelon, kale-type leafy greens, sweet onions and red peppers, ensuring delicious Red Sea meals onboard Sea Child.  Observing the men and women of Suakin, we noticed that almost every man was dressed in all white like Mohammed.  Yet when I finally spotted the women, they moved gracefully across the dusty paths to their lean-to homes and they were dressed in the most brilliant red and yellow local gowns with twisted headscarves.  Their regal stature balanced the baskets on their heads and their beauty radiated in the surroundings.  It was so difficult to grab a picture of the women, but their presence in Suakin was a treat for us to see.

Mohammed and his "memorial car"

Mohammed took us to a “duty free” store where we were able to find Diet Coke.  A treat on Sea Child, Diet Coke has been unavailable to us since we sailed from Thailand over two months ago.  Even in the Maldives, we were unable to spot anything relating to diet anything.  Coke was found everywhere, but to see Diet Coke in Sudan was a great find.  And at the end of a full day with Mohammed, he took us to a local diner, a Lebanese Chicken restaurant that only had one item on its menu:  Chicken BBQ with puffy pita, sweet onions, greens and fuul (a type of fava bean smashed like hummus).  The meal was so delicious we bought another set of meals to take back to Sea Child to enjoy at a later time.

Dinner house

Duty free store

What a donkey!

Our final day in Suakin was spent walking around the ruins near the anchorage.  Crumbled rocks were everywhere.  Men on donkeys passed us with bales of hay stacked high or on carts filled with pipes.  Young men would watch us walk by and pose for pictures.  One man actually came up to us and showed us a dagger he had tucked into his waist belt.  We weren’t really sure what he was trying to tell us.  Did we want to buy it? Did he want to show us what he made?  Was he trying to threaten us?  He did motion for us to follow him to his bakery and given its dusty nature we decided to pass on buying any of his bread.  We did hope to receive our passports back from Mohammed this day, but he called and explained that since it was a Friday, the afternoon prayer service would not finish in time for him to return our passports and departure papers to us till late afternoon.  This would delay our departure until early the next morning, which was fine since we could take the tme to explore more and meet new yachties arriving in the anchorage.

Suakin tourists

One of the greatest things about sailing new areas is meeting new people, hearing their tales of adventures and learning their stories.  We met the most interesting European during our visit to Suakin, and while I will not print his name to protect his privacy, I can tell you that he was a former UN Peacekeeper in Syria 10 years ago.  He told us that he saw first hand of CNN reporters paid $1000 USD to Syrians to hold signs that would make the news.  In his opinion, CNN actually ignited the start of the Syrian conflict, turning a beautiful country into a terrible war and humanitarian crisis.  He told us how Assad Basheer was a dentist who came back to Syria to build roads and schools afer his father, the previous president of Syria, died.  According to our European friend, the 3-way fight between Saudi Arabia, the US and Russia has torn Syria apart, while the refugee crisis is destroying Europe.  He was animated and intense in his descriptive analsysis of the Syrian crisis, and while we had no opinion on his remarks, we did find his conversation interesting.  Many cruisers share their experiences with new friends and we were intrigued at his comments about the current Syrian situation.

Ferry to Suakin from Saudi Arabia

Before sunrise, after the muezzin call to prayer, we bid farewell to Suakin. The north winds had backed down enough to give us safe passage out the 2.3NM, narrow waterway to the Red Sea.  The images, experiences, friendships and memories of Suakin paint a pleasant picture of Sudan.  While in no means a wealthy country, the vibrancy of life is evident everywhere.  Children ran near their parents, adults worked at their respective trades, and while news may have us believe that Sudan is to be avoided, we do not share this perspective.  We were thankful for Mohammed, a true gentleman and friend who went out of his way to open up Sudan to Sea Child.  As we ventured into the waters around Sudan, we felt prepared with our Sim card and provisions from Suakin.  Halfway up the Red Sea and now we were about to embark of our true passion, the waters of the Red Sea and all the treasures we could find beneath them.

Sea Child half way up Red Sea; Delorme InReach Map

Note Regarding Diesel Consumption:

We actually did quite well on our fuel consumption since sailing from the Maldives with full water, fuel and jerry jugs.  Sea Child holds 159 gallons of diesel and we carry another 20 gallons in 4 jerry jugs.  Upon arrival in Socotra, Yemen, we refilled the 20 gallons in the jerry jugs and continued on to Eritrea and Suakin.  We used 80 gallons of diesel on the 2,500 NM sail from Uligan to Suakin.  Average boat speed during the passage was 8.7 knots with just the two of us on board.

To be continued on our next blog:  Sea Child in Sudan:  Diving and Snorkeling the Red Sea and Sanganeb Reef

Red Sea Passage Part 2: Massawa, Eritrea

Eric at Massawa Port

Sea Child tied up to the Port of Massawa after an overnight at a nearby anchorage.  By 10:30pm on Saturday, April 2, 2016, we were exhausted from the long and at times arduous sail from Socotra, Yemen, 972 NM ago.  Eric had tried several times to hail the Massawa Port Control and gain approval to tie up.  However, no answer meant that we anchor, and as our heads hit the pillows, a deep sleep surrounded our exhausted bodies.  By 9 am the next morning, we quietly congratulated ourselves on our successful passage from Socotra, Yemen to Massawa, Eritrea.   When we finally tied up to the dock at Port Massawa, we stepped onto the African continent for the first time in our lives.

Massawa, Eritrea "Banca D'Italia" Bombed in 1991

The hot African winds did little to cool the sticky, humid air of the Red Sea.  The Port itself was deserted except for an immigration officer and a health officer who processed our arrival.  Thank God we had our Health Clearance from the Maldives, as the health officer wanted some record of our health history and vaccinations.  I offered both men some of the delicious yogurt & jam I received as a gift from Denis on Socotra Island and we gave each man two packs of cigarettes that we had picked up in Malaysia.  Two copies of our crew lists, one copy of Ships Registry, one Declaration of NO ARMS or ANIMALS, and one copy of Maldives Health Clearance were all required to enter Eritrea.  After about 30 minutes, we received our shore passes for a 48 hour visit to Massawa.  We were in for an incredibly short visit of an incredibly ruined city.

Old Towne Ruins, Massawa, Eritrea

As we entered the Old Towne from the high walls of the Port, we were unprepared for the incredible destruction of the Old Towne itself.  The severely damaged Italianate “Bance D’Italia” stood before us in ruins in the center of the nearby square.  Bombs had hit their mark on railings, through windows and into the stone sides of the building itself.  The entire area we walked into was totally deserted, perhaps from the extreme heat of the day or perhaps there were just no people living in the area?  We had heard about the tasty Asmara Beer from our friends on Taimada & Laragh who had visited Massawa just a few days before us, so we were on a mission for some way to celebrate our momentous occasion!  We were in awe at the appearance of the bombed out buildings around us as a taxi driver appeared out of nowhere!  It was as if he was tipped off by the harbor officials that we were coming out, who knows.  In any case, he asked us where we were going, and since we had no particular destination in mind and just wanted to walk around, we passed on his offer for a ride.  He introduced himself as Solomon, then insisted on giving us a “free ride” so we asked him to take us to the Dahlak Hotel, where we heard we could get a beer.  Solomon said, “No, Dahlak is junk” and proceeded to drop us off at what can only be described as a filthy dive bar where we could get an Asmara Beer.  Solomon offered to exchange some USD for local Eritrean Nafka ($1 USD = 15 Nfa), gave Eric $500 Nfa so we could buy a beer, and told us to wait for his return at the dive bar.

Eric exchanging USD for Nfa

We entered the dark space and our eyes adjusted to reveal a full bar, shelves filled with bottles of Asmara Liquor.  Eric asked a man sitting at a table at the back bar for two Asmara Beers, and in the dark light, the man pointed to his right - towards a lady lying asleep across a bench.  Guess she was the bartender, who knew how old she was since she was laying with her arm across her face.  Eric asked some younger girls who entered the bar for two beers, and they delivered very cold and very delicious Asmara Beers.  A TV hung brightly in the far corner silently broadcasting some type of political program.  We enjoyed celebrating our momentous occasion, profound in its completion, sailing from Maldives to Socotra and deep down the Gulf of Aden through Bab el Mandeb.  A toast to our success.

A toast at our successful sail from Socotra, Yemen to
Massawa, Eritrea

We mentioned to each other how we should have some mosquito repellant on since we were starting to feel some crawling around our ankles.  As we glanced down at the floor, we noticed the filth, the apparently dried ketchup, food particles, disgusting dirt where we were sitting, and what we thought were mosquitos were actually thousands of ants crawling on and around our feet.  Looking closer around the tiny, dark dive bar revealed tattered satin curtains hanging on the black dirt walls and food stained tablecloths under our sweaty hands.  Why would Solomon drop us off here?  We hastily paid the bill with the Nafka Solomon left us and headed out of the filthy little bar.  The sleeping lady never knew we were even there.

Old Towne Mural, Massawa, Eritrea

As we walked into the blazing heat towards the Dahlak Hotel, which sits across the causeway connecting the Old Towne to Taulud Island, I pointed out to Eric the giant mural of the Commando painted on the side of a building.  He was dressed in short shorts and a collared shirt, with ammunition making an X across his back.  We both stared at this mural in disbelief, wondering why the people of Massawa would want this image to be a representation of the Old Towne of Massawa? We later learned that this mural depicts the Freedom Fighters who “liberated” the Port of Massawa from Ethiopian forces in 1991.

Returning with the Cash!

Halfway across the causeway, Solomon returned at a high rate of speed.  He stopped short, and wanted us both to get into the taxi.  I refused, who was this guy and why is he driving like a mad man?  In any case, Eric did get into the taxi, and I watched in disbelief as Solomon took off with Eric towards the Old Towne.  At the end of the causeway, Solomon turned around and sped back towards me, stopped, and Eric got out of the car.  “Well that was exciting!” Eric exclaimed as he continued that Solomon had exchanged $100 USD for $1500 Nafka.  Solomon told Eric that if anyone asked, this Nafka came from a bank, and then he sped off.  No other cars were around on this Sunday afternoon and not many people, either.  So we continued on to the Dahlak Hotel where we heard there was internet.

Welcome Sign, Dahlak Hotel

Italian Tile Detail, Dahlak Hotel

The once grand Dahlak Hotel sits on the banks of the Red Sea.  The Italian architecture is pronounced, as it the exquisite tile work surrounding the giant algae-filled pool, dusty lobby, and filthy bathrooms.  At a glance, you’d think it to be a 5-star resort and perhaps it once was.  We spent just enough time there to see how far it had fallen from its glory days.  The bathrooms alone were the most disgusting I have ever seen, and with all the places we’ve been, that’s saying quite a lot.  The mirrors were missing from the walls, their bare-painted shadows all that remain.  The light fixtures look like someone tried to pry them away and the filth of the stalls lay in testament to a long-gone cleaning crew.  While we enjoyed many bottles of Asmara Beer, the dinner menu at the Dahlak Restaurant was lacking in selection: Pasta, pasta with red sauce, or pasta with cheese and fish dishes (no idea what type of fish) was pretty much all that was on offer. We drank enough Asmara Beer, tried to communicate with our delightful waitress, and then headed back to the Port and an early night to bed.  We had tried the internet in the Dahlak lobby, sitting in chairs surrounded by cigarette butts on floors, but the connection was impossibly slow.  Forget it.

Dinner at Dahlak

We walked back across the causeway and this time Old Towne Massawa was alive with people.  All the shuttered buildings we passed before were now open, with busy tables lining the streets.   We came upon one large group of people, and surprise, there was Solomon! This time, he was properly dressed and perhaps a little amazed to see us as well.  He introduced us to Samuel, the cafe owner, whose family lives in the capital city of Asmara.  Both Samuel and Solomon were very interested in our travels on Sea Child, amazed that we were able to travel so freely.  And the Freedom Fighter Mural? Turns out Solomon was actually one of those fighters in the short shorts carrying machine guns during the civil war in 1991.  Samuel shared a shot of local Asmara Grappa with Eric (I had the good sense to pass) and after a short time, we continued back to Sea Child.

Eric with School Boy

The next morning, we headed out to find some provisions.  The houses of Old Massawa are as run down and crumbled as the dingy bar and ruined bank building.  People were out and about, and the only cars we saw were several large trucks delivering cargo to the port.  We later learned that the cargo was gold and copper heading to China.  Since our planned departure from Massawa was 0530 on Tuesday morning, immigration was going to confiscate our shore pass at 1700.  We found a corner market that sells small amounts of provisions (zucchini, onions, bread and potatoes) next to a crumbled ruin.  Children were running around the dirt streets with smiles on their faces, begging us for pens or pencils to complete their homework from school.  

Dahlak Waitress at the Market

We ran into our waitress from the Dahlak Hotel, and she invited us into her small home behind a giant wall nearby. She lived with her mother, her brother, and two small children in a neat home with tall ceilings.  A gas stove framed the threshold into her joint living/sleeping area where a pumpkin stew was bubbling away.  She asked us to come back for coffee the next morning, but we had to leave Massawa and would not be able to join her.  Yet we thanked her for the opportunity to see the living conditions of the war-torn Old Town and felt that she was content with her station in life.  The ruins around us may seem unlivable, but Old Towne Massawa was home to a functioning community.

Old Towne, Massawa Street Scene

 St. Mariam Cathedral, Taulud Island, Massawa, Eritrea

We ate lunch in the Luna Restaurant on Taulud Island, after exploring around the empty streets. Past the Tank Monument of the 1991 Rebellion and the beautiful St. Mariam Cathedral, we settled into a lazy afternoon break.  The local cuisine in Luna was a far cry from the limited menu in Dahlak Hotel.  We feasted on a local plate of spicy beef on a flat bread.  The restaurant was busy, with several locals around us enjoying the food, which is alway a good sign, right?  And while we again drank bottles of deliciously cold Asmara Beer, we pushed back the cats surrounding our table, fighting amongst themselves for any scraps of food.  One cat was even bold enough to actually climb up the table and attempt to eat right from our plate.  Crazy cat.  But it was time to head back to Sea Child, to surrender our shore passes and watch the loading of the giant containers on cargo vessels.  We walked past the crumbled ruins of Massawa and while we appreciated the exotic history of the area, we were ready to head out to the Red Sea again and sail for Sudan.  We received our departure papers, paid our $20 USD and gave up more cigarettes to the immigration man.  At dawn the next day, we were on our way.

Massawa, 15 degrees 36.35 min N, 39 degrees, 27 min E, has a rich history. More can be found on Wikipedia on the internet.    

Please come back for our next entry,  Sea Child in the Red Sea:  Arriving in Sudan