Scent of an Island

4000 miles and 4 weeks have passed since we left Panama City, on our Great Adventure across the South Pacific Ocean. The weather has been varied during this journey, from hot to cold, into the wind, reaching and flying downwind. We have eaten fabulous meals and read fantastic books. Our time on Sea Child has been just that, our time, and we are all very aware of how fast it is flying by. At 142 miles from the Marquesas islands, around 1:30am, the winds shifted out of the west, and we became aware of the smell of the approaching islands. Animals, like goats or boar, the musky smell of wild creatures and their presence on a remote island. After 14 days at sea, this change to our senses was pronounced; we were near our first French Polynesia destination.

Approaching Hiva Oa, we sailed through a minor cold front, with the sky darkening, outlining major distant squalls, the sky a dramatic silver at sunset. Our world on the sea is so simple, so beautiful, filled with sunshine and cobalt blue days, a billion stars at night, appreciating the beauty of the Pacific Ocean, after its left us in our wake. As we arrived in Hiva Oa, we sailed 3,070 miles from Galapagos, averaging 219 miles per day. Top boat speed on the crossing was 18 knots, spinnaker run, mostly out of control! Just focusing on keeping the massive blue, green & white sail full on a night watch took every ounce of focus we could muster. A degree or two off, the giant sail would collapse and wake the entire boat. We sailed with the spinnaker for 4 days straight, day and night, hand steering, racing towards the Marquesas. While the effort at focus was intense, we appreciated the great sailing that we were blessed to experience on our Galapagos to Marquesas crossing.

We arrived at Hiva Oa early Saturday, October 24, 2009. Coming into Taahuku Bay, we followed the range markers and navigation lights, dropping anchor at 2:00am. After a few celebratory beers, we all hit the sack for a few hours of much needed sleep. And awaking around 10:00am, we discovered the first strong wi-fi signal and internet access in over 2 weeks time. We anchored in the little bay about a mile from Atuona, the main town in Hiva Oa. Our mission across the open ocean was complete, and our exploration of French Polynesia was about to begin.

Hiva Oa, 9 degrees 48 minutes SOUTH, 139 degrees 02 minutes WEST.